Himalayan Odyssey (Lahaul & Spiti)

Himalayan Odyssey (Lahaul & Spiti)

Day 3 - June 10 2008

Kaza to Chango - 150Km

Day started with a hot water bath followed by delicious toast with omelets for breakfast. We rapped up fast and started our journey. It was a hot sunny day on the mountain region and climate was gradually changing from what we had seen the previous day. We were descending from Kaza which is at a much higher altitude (3600 M) compared to Recong Peo, our planned destination for the day. We cruised through high mountain range which was not much different from what we had seen from Batal to Kaza but of course was colder than today. Dhankar was our next in the visiting list. After passing a couple of villages we were welcomed by a gateway of Dhankar monastery. hmmm… it was a breath taking view of huge sand dunes as we passed. Spiti River which flowed next to us all the way from Losar now looked like a silver line. A sand filled village stood in front of us on the gray mountain. We saw the mighty sand dunes or huge enough to say the Sand Mountains on which the prayer flags fluttered.

One of the oldest monasteries built on these hills was astonishing to see. The curvy road lead us to the monastery passing through some of the tallest sand dunes stood as guards of the mountain. We were amazed to see how the civilization still existed in such extreme conditions where one has to TREK miles for a drop of water. The crouching sun was making us irritated though we were at an altitude of 3890 M which actually should be very cold. We spent some time capturing few best moments over there but were in no mood to go inside the monastery. Lens was covered and the engine started back. We spent some more time capturing the landscapes while descending. Some more twists and turns, rocky and sandy roads bought us to Tabo village, our next visiting destination. "Ajanta of the Himalayas", as the Tabo Chos-Khor Monastery is popularly known, was founded more than a millennium back in 996 A.D, The Year of the Fire Ape by the Tibetan Calendar. Tabo stands on the barren, arid, snow covered, cold and rocky desert of the Tabo valley at a dizzying height of 3050 m. Untouched by the tribulations of humanity, a heaven in its own sense, it has preserved the glorious heritage, traditions and culture of Buddhism through the passage of centuries, withholding its institution with utter purity. It is usually visited by bikers and travelers including some from outside India. We parked or bike and headed straight to its entrance which had a wooden door shorter than me hopefully standing there from centuries, and next to it were the praying wheels. The monastery temples house a priceless collection of manuscripts and thangkas (Buddhist scroll paintings), historical, exquisite statues in stuccos, frescos, and murals depicting tales from the Mahayana Buddhist Pantheon. But most of the gompas were closed and we could not see the actual paintings and statues. Not much has changed since 996 AD at the Tabo Monastery. The lamas still perform tantric rites in the temples. They perform most of their morning 'poojas', and also live in the 'new' temple. Chanting starts at 6 a.m. sharp. The monastery complex holds 9 temples, 23 chortens, a monk's chamber, and an extension that houses the nun’s chamber. We wandered around the monastery where we saw stalls put on either side of the road selling ancient antiques, handicrafts, ear rings, bangles, hand bags, kukri’s and many more by gone things.
It was noon and was time for lunch. We had descended almost a 1000M to reach Tabo which was hotter than what we had expected it to be. A wooden building or a restaurant big enough for 30 members to dine had no one to visit. We were the only customers for the day I believe. Though food was not so delicious it was not bad either to fill our empty stomachs. It was around 2:00 PM and we had only rode 65 km for the day. It was a long journey ahead and hence not wasting any time we started immediately after the meal. 30km from Tabo we came across a permanent army camp, it was the border security force (BSF). We remembered about the sugar point told by a traveling friend whom we met at Kunzum La. Sumdo is what the place is known as and visitors need to take a written permission to visit sugar point. I stood with the heavy back pack outside a police chouki near the camp where I met a group of bikers from Mumbai who were looking for a lodge for the day as one of their team members had caught fever wile Anil had gone to get the permission letter. A stout came on a bullet with heavy luggage loaded at the back leaving very little place for the driver and parked next to me. For my surprise she was a lady from the same group. They were 4 guys and 3 girls on their bullets who had come to circuit Spiti valley like us. After getting the permission letter we headed straight to Sugar Point. We were stopped by the security personals for checking and In no time we were permitted for a 17 km uphill ride. It was around 3:30 PM and we were riding in a restricted area. It is Indo Tibet Border Force (ITBF) setup at a large area and army personals were on their routine work. We passed the camp area & started climbing the switch backs of the sandy mountain. As we gained altitude the cold wind bought shiver and eventually posing a difficult stretch ahead. I was taken aback by seeing the white lit mountains, and the undisclosed beauty of great Himalayan ranges. We came across a small circle with a flag pole where our Indian tricolor fluttered in pride and that was the end of the road. We saw a small wall and written on it was “Welcome to Sugar Point” which hardly anybody could see. Officer in charge of this area came and greeted us and behind him came another soldier with two glass of water. They were already informed by the check post personal about our visit. Sumdo Sugar point is the end point where any civilian can go in India towards Tibet. I was seeing a border for the first time where there were real bunkers, a couple of horses tied in the far end, an office, and a kitchen. The officer showed us the two last points of India far away on the mountain range which had a horse trail and said we could have gone to the last one if we had arrived a bit earlier as it takes 3 hrs for a return journey on horses. A group photo and it was time to say good bye to sugar point. The descent was as enjoyable as the ascent and in very short time we were in front of the police chouki to collect our bag.
Road from Sumdo towards Recong Peo was newly tarred and was wonderful riding next to Spiti river. We passed a place called Chango about 10 km from Sumdo and headed towards Nako. We were told to reach Nako village before sunset as we had to pass a stream where water would raise as the sun sets. It was an uphill ride, after a short break we were almost reaching the top of the hill when, suddenly Anil lost the control on the bike and it started wobbling tremendously, but somehow we both managed to get the bike to halt. It was a flat tire and for the first time our bike showed the sign of exhaust. Hmmm… the sun was setting and we had very little time to think. The puncture kit with us kept our confidence of getting the bike on road in short time. When the tube was removed we got a pinch in the spine seeing the neck of the tube hanging to an edge making a big hole in the tube. This is not a good sign and it’s hard to be repaired when there is no spare tube. Anil was struggling to get it repaired but there was no go. Nako was still 6km and the sun was setting which left us with only one option, returning back to Chango for a night stay. 5:30 PM we started the trek along with our injured steel horse. Trekking downhill that to with a bike loaded with luggage is not an easy job. Both were completely exhausted when we reached Chango and to our surprise, at 7:30 PM except a small shop nothing was open. Usually people in these regions go to bed by 8:30 PM and so even the mechanic had backed home. The shop keeper tried calling the mechanic’s neighbor to inform about the situation but could not reach him. An omelet each was our dinner for the night. There were no hotels or lodges to spend the cold night. Thanks to the shop keeper who made some arrangement for our night stay. It was a clumsy room with a double bed which left no choice but to take it to survive the cold of the night. The day ended in a dark cold room of Chango with a half filled stomach thinking about next day.

Himalayan Odyssey (Lahaul & Spiti Valley)

Day 2 - June 9 2008

Chandertal - Kazaa - Kibber - 160 km

Early morning after sipping hot tea and arming ourselves with info on the approach road to the lake from Dhaba owner, we proceeded towards Chandertal Lake. It was the most awaited day for both of us as we were about to see one of the wonderful lakes in Himalayas. It was a cloudy

and cold morning and we were covered with 4 layers of cloths to withstand the cold breeze. We started our journey with a backpack which had couple of cameras and a water bottle. Chandertal is at 14 Km from Batal and the road thereon proved to be another challenge altogether- high altitudes, narrow tracks, steep ravines, rock/pebble infested, water courses/ falls through the roads and no signboards. We were warned of huge rocks fallen in middle of the road blocking the way, but as said by dhaba owner it was not a problem for a pulsar to pass through.

As we gained the altitude, we saw the Chandra river bed which approximately I hope was not less than a kilometer wide and shined like a silver snake. Further after crossing some freezing streams, we came across a glacier which had almost blocked the way. One mistake and both of us will be rolling hundreds of meters down the hill into the river and straight to heaven. There was a very small passage to pass the bike but the road was totally wet by the melting glacier and we had no other option but to cross it. I got down and walked through the glacier and told anil to come as close as he can towards glacier to cross the route. Woof! It was a great experience.

One hour had already passed and we were shivering from and freezing wind and wet shoes, still in search of lake in an alien place surrounded by mighty snow-clad mountains. The narrow road bought us to an open area, which was almost like a field and the road was flat and straight. We were surprised to see such a vast open area at that altitude. No wonder why Himalayas are known as one of the mysterious places on earth. There was one more incline with switchbacks and I had to hike a distance as the machine couldn’t pull us both. The terrain looked familiar as seen in photographs and a signboard with Welcome to Chandertal Lake written on it, stood at a distance. The place was too slippery and was wet due to the mist and was difficult to ride the bike. It was extremely cold and agonizing there; finally we saw the wonderful lake and stopped our bike. Lake was quite at a distance and I went in search of a trail and saw one leading down below, but not negotiable with a bike. We went about looking for an approach and were wondering how to get to the shore, but couldn’t take bike any further. It had to be done walking down and we both knew that could cost us whole day in Chandertal, which was out of our plan for the day.

We were trembling from freezing temperature and took some time to warm ourselves. Chandertal Lake is situated at an altitude of about 4300 meters on a plateau (Samudra Tapu) overlooking the Chandra River.

The lake looked beautiful under the cloud covered red mountains. The name of the lake originates from its crescent shape. We were not lucky enough to see the lake in bright sunlight under blue sky as it was completely cloudy. Lake appeared Prussian blue in color, and a greenish tinge of water had the perfect reflection of mountains and clouds in it. The exquisiteness of nature made us spell bonded. Though we wanted to stay there for some more time, weather warned us to leave. Capturing the magnificence of Chandertal in our cameras and brain we headed back towards Batal. It’s another ninety minutes ride in the cold mountain land to reach Batal. We were so exited while coming to Chandertal but now only thing in our mind was to reach Batal before it starts raining. On the way we met a sumo driver who was waiting for a trekking group to come and was wondering if his sumo will make it till Chandertal Lake. We told him to wait at the same place as there was no way for a sumo to Chandertal Lake. Later after reaching Batal at Chandra dhaba we came to know that BRO cleans the road to Chandertal every year and in next couple of weeks road clearing will start, which makes it possible for vehicles like sumo to go till lake.

During summer there are many trekkers, bikers and cyclist’s who camp by the Shore of Chandertal Lake. In winters it is merely not possible to reach Chandertal to see the frozen view of the lake. On return to Batal, we started packing our luggage and were ready for our further journey to Kazaa. After a small photo session and delectable breakfast, we started the journey on our steel horse saying good bye to Batal. It was an uphill journey till Kunzum Pass, which took a toss of the bike. At many places we were riding on the glacier and the road was almost wet everywhere due to melting glacier. Walking such an uphill with a 15KG back pack in such hostile condition was agonizing. But seeing the surrounding we forgot all the pain. It was heaven on earth at Kunzum La. Kunzum la (altitude 4551 m) is entrance pass to Spiti Valley from Lahaul Valley. Kunzum La which is at a distance of 9km from Chandra Tal is one of the highest passes in Lahaul and Spiti. Surrounded by Himalayan ranges from all the sides, Kunzum pass was a delight to our eyes. There is a Kunzum Devi temple at the top, and which is believed as one need to take a Parikrama of the temple before moving further. While we were at Kunzum, we met a person from Chandigarh who had come along with his wife in a Hyundai Santro, and had plans to reach Manali by dusk. Soon after taking a Parikrama of the temple and a traditional photo next to the Altitude board (4551 m), we continued our journey.

As we started descending from KUNZUM LA, we saw a notable change in vegetation from white and grey slopes to green valley, some breathtaking landscapes and some wild roads kept me busy all the time clicking photos. A big welcome gate saying "Most Welcome to Spiti Valley" was in front of us. Couple of photos in front of the Spiti gate and were back on the road. Finding good metaled road, anil was delighted after what we’ve been through and cruised on the flat road. It was like feeding our bike 110 octane methanol. After a long long time anil was actually able to shift to the fourth and fifth cogs and raced towards Lossar. Lossar is a small village in high Himalayas with not more than 100 in population, but well connected with all basic needs of life. After many days we saw the idiot box with Dish TV.

We found out that the next 57 km to KAZAA were smooth and we'd make it in 2 hrs max. So we decided to have a hasty lunch and then move towards Kazaa. Lunch was Parathas, Dal, Rice, and Eggs. The place was almost like the normal hotels we see with Tables, Chairs and Fan (i still wonder why they even need a fan). A seat overlooking the road and huge mountains at the background, hmmm it was not less than a 5-star hotel and worth a million bucks. Now as we knew the roads were good hereafter we felt relaxed, but mid day sun had heated up the road and the heavy back pack was making me feel worst. Though roads were good, it was a butt wrenching ride in that hot sun which had already tanned our face. After a couple of pit stops, some switch backs and amazing landscapes we reached Kazaa before sundown. Not wasting much time we booked a room with double bed and attached toilet, which after negotiating was Rs.200 for a night (Really worth for a night stay). Kazaa being the capital of Lahaul and Spiti is situated along the Spiti River at an elevation of 3,800 meters, has all the basic amenities and attracts travelers from across the globe to experience the Magical Himalayas. Though there were many lodges in Kazaa, ours was not less than any luxurious one. Kazaa is the largest township and commercial center of the valley.

After washing our dusty faces and getting fresh, we had hot tea and moved towards Ki Monastery. It is the biggest monastery of Spiti Valley and a religious training center for Lamas, which is at around 10 Km from KAZAA. This old monastery, which dates from around 1000 AD, is one of the oldest in Spiti Valley. This monastery is located on top of a hill, which is connected with a well maintained road. When we entered the monastery a lama came to show us the main temple. Sun was on his way back home and the Lamas in the monastery were ready for their dinner. We were amused by seeing the fantastic art work on the walls of huge monastery at that altitude and the lamas living there in such harsh conditions.

It was now time to say good bye after taking some memorable photos in Ki. We now headed towards KIBBER, once the world’s highest motorable village. Kibber is located at a height of about 14,200 ft in a narrow valley on the summit of a limestone rock. Kibber is rather a pleasant village with plenty of cultivation, lush green fields, which look strikingly refreshing against the arid backdrop of lofty hills. The remarkable feature about the architecture is the use of stone instead of mud or adobe brick used extensively in the valley. There are a civil dispensary, a high school, a post office, a telegraph office and a community TV set in the village. We both were glad we made it till here on bike. We then rode back straight to the lodge and opened the old monk we had kept for the evening. Day 2 ended after having delicious Phulke and gobi for dinner.

Day 2 places and distance -

Batal to Chandertal to Batal - 30

Batal to Lossar - 30 km
Lossar to Hanse - 20 km
Hanse to Morang to Rangrik - 30 km
Rangrik to kaza - 10 km
Kaza to Ki monastery - 9 km
Ki Monastery to Kibber - 11 km
Kibber to Kaza - 19 km

Himalayan Odyssey (Lahaul & Spiti Valley)

Day 1 - June 8 2008
Kasol-Manali-Batal - 200 km

After the most incredible trek of our life it was now time to go missing in the spiritual and secluded valley of Spiti. The Spiti Valley and its neighboring valleys are among the most remote in the world, lying on the border with Tibet in a seldom-traveled corner in the far north of India, smack-dab in the middle of the mystic Himalayas.

We started early from Kasol passing through the same switchbacks of Parvati valley and reached Kullu at around 9 AM. We wanted to get the bike checked once again before hitting the unknown roads of Spiti. Soon after reaching Kullu we started searching for a Bajaj mechanic and found all the shops closed as it was Sunday, but to our luck we found a Bajaj mechanic (Anantaram – PH 09817268449) near the old bridge of Kullu. Anantaram after a quick check of the bike, assured everything is fine. His assurance was more than enough for us to start our 5 day long journey. Next thing in front of us was to find an ATM in Kullu. There is one and only ICICI ATM in the city and by god’s graces it was in working condition. We didn’t wanted to take any chance hence got enough cash for our journey.

Topped up the tank and started towards Manali which is an important hill station in the Himalayan Mountains of Himachal Pradesh, near the northern end of the Kullu Valley. Manali is administratively a part of the Kullu district. The name of Manali is on the name of Lord Manu. This temple is one and only temple in the world. According to scriptures, Manu was the first man in nature. We stopped at the same small hotel at Palchan; where we had been earlier for hot parathas and tea. News from the locals was that the roads of Spiti valley is still not cleared by BRO (Border Road Organization), but it shouldn’t be a problem for bike if there aren’t any landslides on the way. With all the bike gear and confidence we started towards Rohtang, which is one of the highest passes in Himachal Pradesh. Traffic jams on the way to Rohtang are common occurrences caused due to the tight roads, rough terrain compounded with Snow/ice and large number of tourist vehicles. Luckily we got through one such jam, which caused hundreds of vehicles to line up on the Manali-Rohtang highway.

Rohtang Pass is at an alt. of 13,051 ft (3,978 m) which is two times the alt. of Manali being 6,398 ft (1,950 m). Rohtang Pass is 51 KM from Manali, which is complete uphill ride and this high mountain pass connects the Kullu Valley with the Lahaul and Spiti valleys of Himachal Pradesh. The pass is open from May to November and the BRO has maintained excellent roads even in such harsh weather conditions. Rohtang pass was ancient trade route between the people on either side of Pir Panjal and this pass has nasty reputation for being very dangerous because of unpredictable snowstorms and blizzards. The pass provides a natural divide between scenic Kullu valleys in the middle Himalayas with the dry desert uplands north of the greater Himalayas. On the southern face of this pass there is a spot called Bias Kund, which is the origin of river Beas.

It was Sunday and Rohtang Pass was filled with tourists, vehicles, hotels and what not, which looked as if there was some festival on the cold mountains. Here one can walk over and touch snow even in the peak of summer. If Rohtang pass was crammed with visitors, few meters after the pass was very soon a cold desert where we could only see the green valley dwarfed by the surrounding white-capped peaks, which caught our attention for a quick photo shoot. The downhill road was merely filled with loose gravel & mud and melted water from the mountain flowed through out the road leaving no sign of tarmac. This road condition and the cold blustery weather made riding a bit risky for Anil but he balanced the bike while I kept clicking my camera. At one curve we stopped the bike and stood watching the gigantic peaks and the thriving valleys. It looked as if The Lady – Mother Nature is resting here. Chandrabhaga River looked like a silver line in the copper field alongside of the road curveing through the flourished Spiti valley.

The descent took us to a board that read, “KAZA, SPITI Valley” was the first we came across after Rohtang Pass, which bought an immense joy and happiness within us and the desire to ride through Spiti increased. We were standing on the spot we used to point out in maps and dreamt of being there. The place is called “Gramphoo”, merely a small junction with no homes or dhaba’s we read in some travel blogs. From this junction one needs to take right to Spiti or go straight for Keylong and Leh. The valleys are accessible only a few months of the year (May to Oct) when receding snow allows traffic over 15,000-foot-high (4551M) Kunzum Pass, the only other entrance for sometimes-motor able access is habitually blocked by mud and rockslides. As we rode through the curvy, muddy road we were overwhelmed by seeing the beautiful waterfalls far inbetween the cracks of the mountain. It was 3:00 PM and we decided to give a tea stop at next village “Chatru”, which is 17KM from gramphoo according to the map. We now had to cross the first stream (NALA) on our way.

The mountain wall on the right side was covered with thick ice and freezing water flowed extremely through it. I got down with a heavy backpack and told anil to take the bike other side as I walked through the unforgiving, bone chilling water. My toe’s got numb for a while and the expression on my face was horrible at that moment. With that heavy backpack it was difficult walking in that cold water, but it was extreme fun. We roughly took 15 min to cross the watercourse and relaxed for a while. Many small streams come in our way and we enjoyed crossing them. At around 4:30 PM we came near a place which looked more or less like an open field and river flowed nearby. Our legs were wet and the cold ambiance surely asked for a hot cup of tea. As we moved further a milestone read “CHATRU 0 KM”, but there was no sign of any living being around and suddenly the jubilation started to gloom. We passed a bridge and saw some tent nearby, it was nothing but an old army tent put long back. With a hope of finding some village for tea and snacks, we moved further. It was around 5:00 PM and the vegetation had completely changed.

The snow clad mountains replaced the green with gray and brown. Atmosphere was getting chilly and due to the wet shoes anil was unable to ride the bike, hence sidelined the bike and removed his shoes. Wind at this point blew awfully and we could not here each other. Now only thing in our mind was to get to our destination “BATAL” as early as possible. Road now became narrower and as it was almost 6:00 PM, sun was setting but Batal was nowhere to be seen. Our talks stopped and both felt a kind of uncertainty. Road was getting worst and was practically difficult for anil to ride through the boulders on the way. Our body started giving up for the cold and the harsh road. All the joy of the day was one side and not finding Batal yet was on the other side. Looking at the surrounding we felt as if we were in some alien territory. I now knew how a cold desert looks like and to be honest it was a bit horrifying. Both started losing patience and on top of that a long cold stream was in front of us. We had no option other than crossing it. We literally were shouting with distress “WHERE THE HELL IS BATAL” but except the icy mountains, nobody was there to listen to us.

Sun had already said good bye for the day, leaving this part of earth to freeze. Reluctantly we crossed the stream and with those numb feet we moved further. Suddenly a mile stone read Batal 10 KM. Though it was now dark, weather was freezing, road was worsening and we both were dog-tired, mile stone bought a big smile on our face. We were happy for not getting lost in the cold desert. Still the joy was not lessened and the road came to a dead end, an ice slide had blocked the further way. The killing cold left us dumb struck for a while as the only way to the other end was by crossing one more chilled stream. We now knew there is Batal at 8KM from where we stood, but were not able to move our feet any more. One of the most memorable days of our life had not yet ended showing hurdles in front of us. I reluctantly got down and moved further, luckily stream was not deep and anil could get through easily on bike. Both had no sensation in the feet but kept talking, forcefully diverting our mind. It was around 7:30 and we still had 7KM to go, which would roughly take another 45 min to reach Batal as we could ride at the speed of 10 KM/Hr only. Such was the road condition and the road, surrounding area, everything looked same in dark.

It was incredible seeing those white capped mountains at night. We did not believe our eyes but we did see the light far away. It was Batal, Our destination of first day in Spiti valley. Batal is nothing but a Dhaba (Village Hotel), where a Sherpa lives with his wife and a couple of workers. We stopped the bike and rushed inside, where an old lady was cooking in front of choolah (Village stove). She got up and left way for us to get some heat of fire as we were shivering from cold. We literally kept out feet in fire for 15 sec and only then we could feel the heat. We were lucky to escape from the frost bites.We both were shivering even after wearing multiple layers of warm cloths and hands were still numb. Maaji prepared hot tea for us, which raised our body temperature a bit. Phulke with baingan ki sabji and dal was delicious.

Chandra dhaba is the main junction for travelers in Spiti. Dhaba has an extra room or you can call it a den, which can accommodate 10 people. Den, because it’s merely 7 FT height with no windows and is built by stacking stones vertically. Though all the effort is made to avoid wind from blowing in, the room still remains cold as it is surrounded by snow clad mountains. Thick and warm cotton beds and blankets are specially made to withstand the extreme cold during nights, even when sometimes temperature goes below 0 degree, the blankets keep you warm. Sherpa and his wife come here early May and stay till Nov every year, and past 35 years they have been staying in Batal which is one of the most inhabited places on earth I have seen. Dhaba is not only for food and stay, it also provide all basic needs of life like Soap, Paste, Toothbrush, Sugar, Salt and many more things to the travelers. It was 9:30 PM and we were dog tired but wanted to take some snaps of moon and mountains at night. As we stepped outside the room we realized how warm the room was from inside. Believe me it was freezing outside, and pinching cold wind did not let us stay long taking pictures. First day in Spiti valley ended under the warmth of thick blankets.

The complete route map of the Himachal trip on Pulsar 150 cc is given below along with the distance. Click on the image to see the enlarged map.

Day 1 places & distance -

Kasol to Kullu - 35 KM
Kullu to Manali - 45 KM
Manali to Rohatang Pass - 51 KM
Rohtang Pass to Gramphoo - 20 KM
Gramphoo to Chatru - 17 KM
Chatru to Batal - 32 KM

Himalayan Odyssey (Manali-Kasol)

May 30 2008
Manali-Kasol

It was early morning still dark outside and I was nowhere in mood to get off the bed. Tea was already on the table. We had tea and were planning to get ready as soon as possible. I was out in that cold whether taking pictures while anil was getting ready. Captured some beautiful snaps of snow clad mountains covered in mist. Both got ready and were back on the bike for our return journey. We stopped for breakfast at the same hotel we had been last evening. It was almost 9:00 AM we started from Palchan and stopped in Manali for street beat. After doing some window shopping we were about to leave for Kasol and a board stood in front of us directing to a Monastery. Though it looked different we dint find it as a place one must visit in Manali.

Anil wanted to get the bike checked once and so we started looking for a mechanic. After bike checkup we straight headed towards Kullu. The road from Manali goes along with the beas river which was truly a pleasant ride. After riding for about 15KM we stopped near a bridge for tea. It was a bright day and the sky was clean blue. The surrounding was eye catching. Long pine trees on the river bank looked as if they were arranged in a methodical order. Beas looked ideal for white water rafting. As we were conversing with the chai wala, he suggested us to visit Naggar Palace on the way to Kullu. The road to Naggar castle was soothing one. We cruised through long pine forest and small villages. It can be said as the photographer’s paradise. Naggar is located at 2,047 meters (6,716 feet) and was the capital of Kullu Rajas in 1460 AD. In winter the temperature falls down less than 0 °C and in summers the temperature is moderate. Castle is the main attraction at Naggar. We took some pictures and started towards Kasol. Though we were at that altitude sun was showing its heat. It was around 2:00 PM when we stopped for lunch at a hotel beside Parvati River. We then went to the camp where our luggage was kept. It was now time to check all the photos we had taken in two days.

In the evening we went to Manikaran which is located in the Parvati Valley between the rivers Vyaas and Parvati at 5 KM from Kasol. Manikaran is a pilgrimage centre for Hindus and Sikhs. The Hindus believe that Manu recreated human life in Manikaran after the flood, making it a sacred area. It has many temples and a gurudwara.
Manikaran is also known for the hot springs that are situated near the bank of Parvati River. These are confined to several groups of hot water springs emerging at various locations spreading up to a distance of about 1.3 KM. along the river from the old bridge to Brahmaganga. The springs at Manikaran come out to surface with pressure and are very hot. There is no sulphur or iron mixed in the waters, but it is said to be radioactive. The water of these springs is so much hot that pulses (dal), rice, vegetables etc. can be boiled and cooked in it. Food served in gurudwara is cooked in the same hot water.

The healing properties of the Manikaran Springs are well known all over the country. Pilgrims from far come here to cure their ailments. According to a legend, when Lord Shiva and his consort Parvati were walking in the valley, Parvati dropped one of her earrings. Mani Karan means Ear Rings; the jewel was seized by Shesha, the serpent deity, who then disappeared into the earth with it. Shesha only surrendered the jewel when Shiva performed the cosmic dance, the Tandava and shot the jewel up through the water. Apparently, jewels continued to be thrown up in the waters at Manikaran until the earthquake of 1905. After returning from Manikaran it was time for the dinner at camp and the camp fire. There is much to write about Sarpass trek and hence I will dedicate a separate blog for it.

Himalayan Odyssey (Kullu-Manali)

May 29 2008
Kullu-Manali - 85 KM

It was the second day of our trip and the eagerness to see Manali made us get ready on time. Dumped our entire luggage in camp and started the most awaited journey of our life with a pair of warm cloths and a bag full of cameras and tripod. It was a cold day and the sun rays had not yet touched the ground. First pit stop came much earlier than we expected. Filled our stomach with hot Bread omelet and tea and took out the Canon SLR which was taken especially for this trip. Some photo shoots and headed towards Manali. The road cut through unfolded mountains and tall pine trees was a feast for our eyes. I kept on capturing the serene beauty in my camera. Parvati River flowing down the hill looked overwhelming. Manali is at 40 KM from Kullu and 85 KM from Kasol.

Our next tea stop was after crossing the bridge at Bhuntar. Bhuntar is where the River Parvati and Beas meet. Though sun had started heating up the ground we felt cold while on bike. Kullu was the place we used to dream about and here we are on our bike riding through its streets. We now knew why the place is known as the paradise. As we stirred further we were riding next to the splendid Beas River and we could not stop ourselves by stopping our bike for a plunge into the river. Water was crystal clear and aqua green in color. We had no idea how cold the water was but when stepped in it was like a current shock to our feet. It was ice chilled water and my foot was nearly frozen. Anil somehow got into the water and had a memorable dip of his life. Later after seeing Anil in the water, reluctantly I entered the water. I swear it was breathtaking and bone chilling. It was an experience in itself.

It was almost 1:00 PM and we were hungry like pigs after having a dip in the Beas. One can see many many dhabas and hotels on both sides of the road. We stopped our bike at one such dhaba and ordered the paranthas. Truly, it was the finest paranthas I had ever tasted along with the curd and pickle adding the taste to the feast. After the scrumptious meal it was time to start our bike and head to Manali. We took all our time to get to Manali without rushing any were but enjoying each and every curve on the road. The snow-clad mountains stood majestically in front of us. Some places were speechless and we stood with our eyes of shining expectation fixed on those colonial rocks. Roads are pretty good and well maintained by BRO. one need not worry about the food or water any were in Himachal Pradesh.

It was around 3:00 PM when we reached Manali. My expectations about Manali went wrong bearing in mind the crowded streets and concrete structures tall enough to cover the scenery around. Not wasting much time we started searching for the army transit camp. Anil being Lt in navy we were permitted to stay in the army transit camp situated at Palchan 10 KM from Manali. Me being a civilian, it was a different story although for anil to convince the commander in charge for my stay in transit camp. This army transit camp is delimited by snow clad mountains from all the sides and we can see the switch-backs that take you to Rohatang Pass. After sipping hot tea we were out with our cameras capturing the colorful flowers and grand mounts. There were so many different kind of flowers in and around transit camp. Weather was cloudy and we also experienced a light spell of rain during our journey. Weather keeps changing here. Suddenly there was bright light in the blue sky and was perfect for capturing some eye-catching photos.

It was evening and we started feeling the cold. Even in summers, Manali has recorded the min temperature going below zero. Fortunately it was around 3 to 4 degree on that day. We were again feeling hungry and rode straight to the hotel. Near Palchan we see several stalls numbered in series. All provide warm cloths, and skiing equipments for rent to those who are going to Rohatang Pass. We had yummy chawmin and were back in our room. When in Manali one should by no means fail to eat chawmin. It was now time to hit the army bar and the only dress I had was a jean and T-shirt and a jacket. Thankfully there was no dress code for the bar. Anybody who is going to a defense Bar (PUB), do remember to have a pair of formals with you. It’s a must. Temperature was freezing outside and we were in no mood to get froze hence we opted Fine brandy with hot water for the night. After gulping a couple of glasses it was time for the dinner. What a treat it was with hot Phulke and Rajma. It was a special day for me as I was dining with top ranked Indian defense personals.

Day had still not ended for Anil and me. We wanted to try out with the SLR camera and soon were out in the ground. Though we were completely covered from head to toe, we could not stand the cold of the night. Took some snaps and the next moment we were under warm Rajai (blankets). Second day was called off.

Though tourist season starts from April and ends at November, best time to visit Kullu Manali is May to Aug.

Himalayan Odyssey (Journey Begins)

On my routine office work one day i saw Anil pinging me for chat. I read HI!!!.. And suddenly my monitor screen displayed some interesting words " I am going to Himalaya trek" I asked him with my eyes wide open, WITH WHOM? And the answer astonished me even more "YOU". I was staggered for a while and my mind traveled all over dreaming about the trek.

Himalayan expedition, as we fondly referred to in our college days, was a dream of all 3 of us (group of 4, Shyam is least interested in these activities). No more among us is Roshan, who would have enjoyed every bit of the trip. As amateur trekkers & bikers, we seriously dreamt of this trip (if not anything else) which was destined to happen only after 8 years of agonizing wait. For most, travel is a leisure activity, a temporary disruption of every day life. But for us, travel is much, much more than that. It’s a means to an end.

Inputs of trek came flouting from many sources. With a month long anticipation, planning and preparation culminated the D day. The day i started my journey, namma bengalooru was floating with heavy down pour. Thanks to Girish my friend who bought me to railway station on time. The excitement increased as i reached Hyderabad. We had great time at Anils place and partied all night. With Zeal, at its feverish pitch, 24hr long train journey to Delhi started but was crawling slow. If reaching Delhi was an event in itself - shuttling between old and New Delhi railway stations was disgusting and painful. And in between i made my friend Swati also run from old to New Delhi who came to meet me.

We boarded the train to Ambala which was nowhere close to a pleasing journey. It was 3 am when we reached Ambala where the lodge was booked for us. Next day morning at 8 we had tea and started towards our destination Kasol. We passed Chandigarh and stopped for breakfast. It was 5:30 PM when we reached Kullu from where we need to take a deviation towards right and the road takes us to Kasol which is at 35Km from Kullu. We cruised through beautiful unfolded green mountains and river Parvati was flowing slickly through the rocky valley. Road was curvy and had many hairpin bends. At one such hairpin bend i screamed to stop the bike. Anil was shocked for a moment but got control on bike and stopped in hurry. When i said look front we both were taken aback and our jaw fell open. first time ever in life we were seeing a mighty snow clad mountain in front of us. It was a golden moment for both of us. All the pain of long journey vanished as we stood still gazing the spectacular landscape. We stood there for almost 15 min watching the sun playing tricks on the snow clad peaks and capturing the moment in our camera. Sun was setting and was getting dark, so we were left with no option but to progress.
It was 6:30 PM when we reached Kasol Base camp of National Himalayan Trekking Expedition oganized by Youth Hostel Association of India during the month of May every year. 350KM butt-wrenching bike ride from Ambala to Kasol on a pulsar 150cc with a heavy back pack was unforgettable. Though we had done many biking trips, this was a different experience in itself. Many tea breaks and photo breaks made our journey easy and memorable. It was a long journey but all the pain and tiredness was lessened by seeing the gren valley, Peaks and the place where the camp was situated. We straight went to the reporting officer and checked in. We had reached base camp 2 days earlier from the date we were supposed to report(As it was planned). Anil had a word with the field director and we were allotted a seperate tent next to his. First day of our journey from Ambala to Kasol was ended after hogging great paranthas and alu sabji and in next few minuts we were in the sleeping bags provided for us.

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Meaning of Art

The imagination is our most mysterious aspect. It connects our conscious with our subconscious. It allows us to explore our inner self and fill that urge to understand our ever changing body, mind and universe. It is the most important part of every one of us.
Sometimes when we look at a piece of art we understand it. Its meaning is obvious to us. Sometimes we do not understand it on a rational level, we simply feel something when we look at it. We can’t always tell why. Artists rarely provide a clear explanation of what their work is about. The only thing we can tell is that there is a reason behind it. No act of creativity can be said to come without meaning or substance.
Not every artist understands why he creates something, but one thing that we can say beyond doubt is that culture and surroundings are of constant impact on the artist. And their work will often reflect in part their own culture and surroundings and often impart to us their own reactions to such things, although not always. In this all art is connected. Nothing is truly devoid of meaning. Everything is a reaction to something.
"Art plays a special role in human personality. Like science and religion, art fulfills a universal urge to comprehend ourselves and the universe. This function makes art especially significant and, hence, worthy of our attention. Art has the power to reach the core of our being, which recognizes itself in the creative act. For that reason, art represents its creators’ deepest understanding and highest aspirations. At the same time, artists often act as articulators of shared beliefs and values, which they express through an ongoing tradition to us, their audience."
It was 4 million years ago that man started to walk on two legs. And back then we, like monkeys do now, would have used sticks and rocks as tools. But we didn’t make tools. To make a tool you have to think of a stick as a way to knock fruit of the tree even when there is no fruit around. But eventually man started to think ahead. And began to create proper tools, chipping away at sticks and stones to make more ideal tools, and it is at that stage that our history will begin, in a period we call the Paleolithic Period, or Old Stone Age, which lasted from 40,000 BCE to 8000 BCE.
A problem arises from claiming that everything is art when people see that canvass with a single colored line drawn down the middle, they'll question what it is. Art is not any old thing put on a pedestal. Art has meaning. It recreates reality, so it is recognizable. It expresses what the artist believes is important. It expresses his metaphysical value-judgment. It is important because it expresses something.
Today's "art" does not express anything. It is not a recreation of reality. It is unrecognizable and pointless. To obscure these facts, the new "artists" must change the definition of 'meaning'. They do this in two ways.
The first method by which the new "artists" attempt to destroy meaning is by adopting and promoting an irrational epistemology. They attempt to subvert reason by promoting emotions as the method of gaining knowledge. "Art" is claimed to directly stimulate emotions bypassing one's mind. This is why it is not surprising to hear the phrase "I can just feel the colors on this painting" One in a modern art museum. It is claimed that art has no cognitive role.
The second method by which they attempt to destroy meaning is by applying it to a different aspect of art. When it is said that art has meaning, its proper sense is that the work of art directly expresses a meaning. The content itself has meaning, and is directly perceivable. A statue, for instance, can show man a heroic and healthy, or cowardly and sickly. The meaning can be grasped by just observing the statue and recognizing the features that are being expressed.
The new "artists" apply meaning in a different way. They describe the alleged meaning of why the "artist" created it. They try to attach a "meaning" that is not expressed by the work. They might say an all-black canvass shows resentment for life. Or maybe they'll claim it shows fear of being too intimate. Regardless, they attempt to obfuscate the fact that their work has no objective meaning. They try to attach a "meaning" to the "art", invalidating the idea that art really must express something if it is art. But the fact remains, many artists fail to express what they really thought would be on the canvas and they try to give a different meaning to it.